The Manuscript Codex * Structure
STRIPED VERTICAL PATTERN IN A SECONDARY ENDBAND

A pattern found occasionally in Islamic endbands. Woven with two threads of different colors, one thread is taken under a tiedown (or group of tiedowns) while the other pases over the tiedown (or group). The two threads are then interlocked by twisting one over the other in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction before continuing with the passage of the threads in the same manner across the endband, over and under the tiedowns. The twisted interlocking of the threads causes them to lie at a slight diagonal to the direction of the weaving. If the interlocking direction of the threads on each tour of weaving across the endband (either clockwise or counterclockwise) is kept the same on every tour, the diagonal slant in each of the tours is parallel causing the colors to align into plain stripes.
# This structure (and others like it, see: chevron pattern and striped diagonal pattern) which are worked on the primary endband sewing are sometimes referred in the literature as secondary endband sewing. This designation, sanctioned by long use, is not strictly accurate since the structure is woven and not sewn.
Click to see an enlargement
UBL Or. 142

 

 

AUTHORS: PAUL HEPWORTH AND KARIN SCHEPER